Nepal is a fairy-tale land of stunning beauty, monuments of architectural marvel and forested hiking trails. The Himalayan nation gets the largest number of tourists from India. Some go to chant mantras at Pashupatinath Temple and meditate at Buddhists monasteries, some to trek its majestic snow-capped peaks and yet others for adventure.
We went to savor Nepal’s natural beauty.

A steady drizzle welcomed us at Nepal’s Thirubhavan airport. The city was bustling with life. It was difficult to believe that this was the city that was rocked by the killer quake just two months ago.

The buildings, though not more than two-storied, stood majestically tall with no signs of any cracks or other tell-tale signs in the places we traveled.

After checking in at a hotel in Thamel, the city’s commercial hub in the heart of Kathmandu, we drove to the famous Pashupatinath Temple barely just 5km from the city centre.

Pashupathinath Temple

The centuries-old temple, a marvel of Hindu architecture, had miraculously survived the massive 7.9 magnitude earthquake that flattened world heritage sites like Dharhara tower and Durbar Square and a number of temples and monuments on April 25.

There were not many visitors to the temple, a world heritage site. But our guide informed us that before the quake it was always chock-a-block with people. For a Hindu, a visit to the temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, is considered a must.

The temple built in pagoda style with a two-tier golden roof had exquisitely carved silver doors. Other buildings in the complex too had artistically designed windows which had stood the test of time.

With the temple out of bonds for non-Hindus, we had to view it from the outside from where one could just see the golden statue of Nandi- Shiva’s bull.

German monastery in Lumbini

A lot of elderly people roamed about some feeding the monkeys others chanting mantras.
The Panch Deval (five temples) complex, which was once was a holy shrine, now serves a shelter for destitute old people. They come here to die at this sacred place, said our guide.
Behind the temple, a world heritage site, flows the Bagmati river and beside it are the cremation grounds. We could see many pyres burning.

Boudanath
Our next destination was Boudanath or Bauddha. Not far from Pashupatinath, this Buddhist stupa is built on an octagonal base and contains inset prayer wheels. The largest single Chhorten in the world, it is surrounded by prayer wheels, monasteries, homes of Lamas, or Buddhist priests, shops etc.

The stupa towers up towards the sky, draped in fluttering prayer flags. We were not able to climb up the stairs as renovation work was on. Tibetans crowded the place. They could be seen circumambulating the stupa and spinning the prayer wheels.

A Buddhist monk told us that for a wish to be fulfilled all one had to do is chant the mantra – “Om, mani padme hom!” once and rotate the wheel. This would be equivalent to have recited the mantra 108 times.

The shrine closes by 5 pm. So we did some shopping. A lot of artificial jewellery, pashmina cardigan and shawls were being sold. But our guide warned us most of it especially woolens were fake stuff.

We then headed for our hotel as early morning we had to set off for Chitwan by road. Flights were also available but we preferred the land route.

Rendezvous in the jungle

Davis Falls

After breakfast, which was a mix of western and Indian food with toasted bread, chicken sausages, omlettes, cornflakes, aloo parathas etc we hit the road.

It was a little over four-hour journey. A cool breeze blew as the sun played hide and seek behind the hills. The hillside villages were reverberating with life. Some huts were perched at high altitudes and we wondered how they commuted.

Alongside flowed the Trishuli river. We followed the river till it met with two others and turned into the longest flowing river Narayani. It was breathtaking. Some adventurous rafters could be seen rafting in Trishuli despite the inclement weather. Our guide informed it was not unsafe to raft in the Trishuli River even during monsoon. Though not many venture during the season.

Nepal nestled in the hills has many rivers, but electricity is scarce. There are long hours of load shedding. It also boasts of 600 indigenous plant families and 339 species of exotic orchids.

Out of Kathmandu, the air was pure and virtually no pollution. After driving past many kilometers of hills, plants and undulating land we halted for lunch at Mugling. We opted for Nepali cuisine better known as ‘Thakali’. The delightful course – a mix of vegetables, lentil soup, chicken with skin and dhau or curd – is light on the stomach.

By tea time, we arrived in Chitwan. There was barely time to freshen up as we had to rush to the Chitwan National Park, a world heritage site.

We headed for the jungle in an open jeep and then went canoeing in the Buddhi Rapti river. We saw many crocodiles. Some are dangerous our guide warned while others are harmless. We went through some anxious moments as one of them of them winked at us and came darting forward.

After rowing down a few feet, we spotted quite a few kingfishers. The orange and blue winged creatures looked beautiful against the very green backdrop of the jungle. We also spotted a one-horned bill. It’s a paradise for bird watchers.

Elephant Breeding Centre

On the other side of the river, barely 3 km from Sauraha was the Elephant Breeding Centre. We were welcomed by a dancing elephant which kept shaking and bowing its head. To the onlooker it looked as if though it was enacting a namaste pose.

The Sauraha Elephant breeding center was set up in 1989 to increase the falling count of elephants, we were told. There were 2000 elephants in 1911 but by 1970 this number had dropped to around 200. Presently there are 22 female elephants and a couple of cubs.

Chitwan National Park, encompassing an area of 932 sq km, is covered with deciduous forest offering a wilderness of rich eco-system that includes around 600 plant species, 50 mammals, 526 birds and 49 amphibian reptiles. In the dense forest are the one-horned Rhino and Bengal tigers.

The indigenous people living here are known as Tharus. They are renowned for their art and drawing. Some of their houses were decorated with religious drawings denoting different phases of history and culture. The Tharu dance is quite famous..

Elephant Safari

The next day, we left early morning for the elephant safari – an elephant ride into the jungle. But as we reached the Buddhi Rapti river, Ramkumari, the elephant, was reluctant to cross it. After a few proddings by the mahout, she stepped into the water and slowly but steadily crossed over to the other side of the river. We heaved a sigh of relief.

Once in the dense jungle, we looked keenly through our binoculars to spot the one-horned rhino that frequents Chitwan National Park but in vain. Some tourists claim to have spotted tigers too but all we could find were a herd of deer who sped off at our sight.

We kept getting caught in tree branches and the wet leaves after overnight rain left us completely drenched. Neverthless we enjoyed the ride.

The Safari comes cheap for the Nepalese citizens, others from SAARC nations have to cough up something like Rs 1500 Nepalese rupees. Foreigners are charged over Rs 2,000 for an hour-and-a-half ride..

After the ride in the jungle, we went back to our lodge for breakfast. We then made our way out of the forest of Chitwan to Lumbini, the abode of the gods.

Holy nostalgia

We reached Lumbini, the Buddhist pilgrimage centre in Rupandehi district, after a picturesque four-hour drive. We halted at many places to take pictures. The cool breeze and cloudy weather made it easier for us to explore the monasteries in the birth place of Buddha.

As cars were not allowed we had to hire a few cycle rickshaws. The 2-3km ride from near our hotel to the sacred site cost us Rs 400 per rickshaw. The place is free of traffic. However, bicycles are allowed and available on rent.

The main attraction of Lumbini is the Maya Devi Temple, where it is believed that Queen Maya Devi of Kapilavastu gave birth to Gautama Siddhartha. Also located here is the Puskarini or Holy Pond where the Buddha’s mother took the ritual dip prior to his birth as well as the remains of Kapilvastu palace.

Surrounding the temple is a sacred garden containing the pillar of Ashoka , four stupas and a stone pillar with a figure of a horse on top, erected to mark his visit to the holy site.

To visit Mayadevi temple and meditate under the Bodhi tree was a dream come true.

There are many monastries, all architectural gems, built by different countries. Some are under construction. The ones built by the Chinese, Thais and the Germans attract a lot of people. The German monastery is a sight to behold. Its hand-painted hallways, colourful mosaics, tall archways and high ceilings are a delight to the eyes.

The Chinese monastery is another marvel of artistic design with exquisite sculpted images and mesmerizing paintings.

Naturally Nepal

Barahi Temple in Phewa Lake in Pokhara

Our next destination was the picturesque Pokhara. It is the second largest city after Kathmandu and the second most popular tourist destination. A gateway to Nepal’s most-trekked region, Pokhara is located close to towering Himalayan mountains like Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Machhapuchhre.

Unfortunately, it was cloudy when we reached so we could not sight the Annapurna range.

Davis Falls

At Pokhara,our first halt was at “Pataley Chhango” or Davis Falls, an awesome waterfall. Mist can be seen rising as the water falls at great speed. It is said that in 1961 a trekker Devin Davis and her husband were bathing at the fall when she was washed away by the Pardi ‘Khola’ (river). Since then it is known as Davis Falls. It is now barricaded to avoid such mishaps.

Phewa Lake

The Phewa lake, the second largest in the land-locked country, adjoins the main tourism area housing mainly hotels, restaurants and handicraft shops.

Our final stop was the Barahi Temple situated in the midst of Phewa lake. The temple’s two-storied pagoda is dedicated to the manifestation of Ajima, the protectress deity who represents women. Durga takes on the manifestation of Ajima in the form of a boar called Barahi to pierce her evil enemies with her pointed tusks.

Colorful boats ferry people to the temple. Huge peaks overlooked the lake full of fishes. People were seen feeding the fishes though it is forbidden.

We had to pay not only entry fee but also for the boat ride and life jackets. Payments are on an hourly basis the more time you spend on the lake, the more you pay. But you sure get more than your money’s worth..

Incidentally, there is an entry fee for all tourists sites as Nepal gets most of its revenue through tourism. The entry free is less for the Nepalese citizens. SAARC nations also get some concession in the fares but foreigners have to shell out more.

From hills and forests to deeply spiritual cultures to Himalayan vistas, we had an experience of a life time. Sure “Once is not enough” is an apt logo of the country’s tourism board. Even after the massive destruction to life, property and heritage sites, Nepal still exudes a charm, mystery and a sense of wonder.
(The story first appeared in The Pioneer)