Rome: Seated on a rocky perch above the turquoise waters of Lake Albano, far from the hordes and heat of Rome, Castel Gandolfo has given a long line of popes a reason to offer thanks.
The papal hilltop summer retreat, 10 minutes by helicopter from the Vatican, has been a source of inspiration to some pontiffs, such as youthful John Paul II who spent a total six of his 27 years of papacy there and built a swimming pool in the grounds.
But the famously frugal Pope Francis has shunned the luxurious palace, passing through just four times during his 28-month tenure, with no overnight stays.
The town which surrounds the residence has long relied on the pilgrims who come to see the Pope at his country retreat. But the current Pope Francis has never spent more than a day here.
As the third summer of Francis’ reign gets underway the villagers are dreading another summer season without the star attraction. While in most parts of the Catholic world he enjoys the popularity of a rock star, the townspeople, who have relied on the pilgrim trade for their livelihood for generations, are less than impressed with the new pope who they complain prefers ‘poverty and degradation’ to their well-kept and devout town.
Despite concerns for his health and appeals from advisors to take a break, Pope Francis clearly finds the idea of retiring to the lap of luxury too decadent. He claims not to have taken a holiday since 1974,
Former Pope Benedict arrived for a short break at the palace last week but will not give the Sunday addresses that pull in the pilgrims. Pope Francis is currently far away on a visit to his native South America. And with important conferences on the environment and the family coming up in the autumn he is expected to get straight back to work on his return, starting each day as usual at 4.30am.
Meanwhile work is just a distant memory for restaurateurs faced with empty tables, and shopkeepers forced to offer discounts on their souvenirs.
In recent months they were hurt that Francis came to the other side of the lake to do spiritual exercises and to the palace to bless a statue by an Argentinian artist but did not come into the village.
Andrea, a souvenir seller, told MailOnline that if Francis continues to stay away things will become very different in that place. “He is loved in all the world. We are the only ones who are not happy with this new pope.”
I know many of those close to him tell him come to Castel Gandolfo, rest. But he never comes here. Maybe the palace is too luxurious for him.
When Pope Benedict was in power he would come for two or three months every year, he said. ‘If this pope continues to stay away, things will become very different here. We in Castel Gandolfo have to make all our money in summer so we can live off it in the winter. If we don’t make our money, what do we do the rest of the year? ‘
Maria, who runs a gelateria, said grimly: ‘He doesn’t come because he considers the palace too luxurious. He prefers to go to the places where there is degradation and poverty.
Diana Chrysandreas, who has managed the Art and Art souvenir shop for four years, says that locals feel he has abandoned the town. Shrugging her shoulders she insists: ‘We haven’t seen him, he’s too busy for us.’
Businesses were at risk of failing, she explains, with young people being forced to leave town to find jobs in Rome.
Pizza-maker Mirko Bizarri, said: ‘There used to be more than enough customers for everyone but now there’s not enough work. This pope is a good one, but he has broken a tradition.’
In Bar Carosi, the village’s oldest coffee bar, octagenarian Maria Pisa Carosi explained that since that no pope in living memory had eschewed the town’s charms, to do so was bound to cause offence.
Signora Carosi said: ‘I’ve seen every pope come though since the war. They all came. We understand everyone must do as they think best, and this pope is following the behavior of a Franciscan, like his namesake. But John Paul spent five months here every year…
She added: ‘Of course he was a saint.’
But Pope Francis is aware of the problem, and the Vatican has opened the palace’s gardens and farm for the first time
The Vatican has said that Francis would help the villagers ‘in his own way’. One response has been to bring in some tourists by opening the palace’s gardens and farm to the public for the first time.
But with tours open only to a small number of visitors there has not been any palpable boost to trade, Signora Carosi explains.
At the end of last year’s disastrous season Festival of the Madonna of the Lake, Cardinal Angelo Comastri, the effective bishop of the Gandolfo Pontifical Villas, brought a special blessing from Francis to the village.
The previous year the local mayor wrote an open letter to Francis appealing to him to visit.
Milvia Monachesi wrote ‘the absence of the pope has reduced the numbers of tourists visiting Castel Gandolfo, which has hit business in the historic centre especially bars, restaurants and souvenir shops.’
“But the feelings of townsfolk towards the pope are still of affection, admiration and solidarity. We follow all his endeavours with great interest, even if we are saddened by his absence, as we would be by that of a close friend.’
Anna Maria Vici Torrigiani, who runs a souvenir shop there, said that the village remains devout, even if they lost faith in Pope Francis.
‘We in the village have always had a bond with all the popes. But I prefer to think of this bond as suspended not finished. I hope one day our love story will continue. ‘
(This article first appeared in dailymail.co.uk on July 10, 2015)