By Matters India Reporter

Mumbai: Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya, a colossus of costume design who became India’s first Oscar winner for her work in Richard Attenborough’s Gandhi (1982), died October 15 in Mumbai. She was 91.

Her daughter Radhika Gupta said Athayiya died in her sleep. “In 2012, she was diagnosed with a brain tumor. She had been bedridden since 2016 when her right side got paralyzed,” she said. She was cremated at Chandanwadi in south Mumbai.

Athaiya’s chic couture in blockbusters like Waqt in 1965 reportedly blazed fashion trends in those years.

People who mourned Athaiya’s death included Rasool Pookutty, another Indian to win the Oscar award. “Sad day for Indian Cinema. India’s first Oscar winner #bhanuathaiya is no more. You been a guiding light, when nobody even heard of the Oscars you won it for us, you been an inspiration … May your soul Rest In Peace… It’s a huge loss for me personally and @TheAcademy #RIPBhanuAthaiya ,” Pookutty, who won the Oscar in 2009 for best sound mixing, wrote on his Facebook page.

With Ben Kingsley
Bollywood actor Aamir Khan tweeted, ”Bhanuji was one of those film people who beautifully combined accurate research and cinematic flair to bring to life the director’s vision. You will be missed Bhanuji. My heartfelt condolences to the family.”

Bollywood producer Boney Kapoor tweeted, ”Bhanu Athiya was the First Indian to win an Oscar in 1983. Her achievements brought glory to Indian cinema and Pride to the entire Country. Was blessed to have her for our film #Prem. She will always be an inspiration to all costume designers n stylists. #RIPBhanuAthiya’.”

In the foreword to her autobiography, The Art of Costume Design (2010), Attenborough described her as “the revered doyenne of costume designers.” It took me “17 long years to set up Gandhi, my dream film” and just 15 minutes to make up my mind that Bhanu Athaiya was the right person (for the job),” he wrote.

The Kolhapur-born costume designer’s career, spanning 56 years and more than 100 films, reads like a catalogue of Bollywood’s best and biggest: Shri 420, Sahib Biwi aur Ghulam, Sangam, Guide, Waqt, Ek Duuje Ke Liye, Nikaah, Lagaan.

“According to Yashji (Yash Chopra), girls in Delhi bought movie tickets for their tailors so that could see the designs and replicate them.”

Athaiya was married to film lyricist Satyendra (Anhonee, Naubahar, Radha Krishna), who passed away in 2004.